How to Make Your Own Battery Cables the Easy Way

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In this video Jeremy will show his methods for soldering large ring terminals onto heavy gauge battery cable. There are countless types and styles of terminals …

21 COMMENTS

  1. Hey Jeremy, Great 1st video. But, acid core solder is for plumbing and can cause issues when used for electrical/electronics work. Suggest you use rosin core solder in the future.

  2. Nice vid with lotsa good info. Probably be good to mention though, that it's important to use real 60/40 lead/tin solder, not the wimpy lead-free crap you get at most box stores. Also, preferable to use rosin core rather than acid core to avoid corrosion later. Acid core will work but it's more for sealing joints and radiators etc. rather than electrical and should be rinsed off before covering with shrink tube. Just sayin..

  3. I do my wires the same way well I wondered how strong is it so I made a short 18" one hooked it to the winch and tree gave it a little pull pick the jeep up before the cable broke in the middle not at the lug end but in middle ish

  4. Rosin Core for electrical, acid core for plumbing. Use one of the small hose clamps to hold your stranded cable together so it can be inserted into the lug. Remove the clamp after the wire is in the lug then heat it up and push it the rest of the way in.

  5. Man Jeremy, you made a GREAT first how-to video. Thanks for the expert advice. Will be starting the Big 3, possibly big 7 wire harness upgrade soon, this helps a ton. Hope to see more of your videos in the future!

  6. Quick tip from someone that has made a lot of battery cables. Buy one of those cheap hydraulic cable crimpers from Amazon. Reviews on the absolute cheapest ones are spotty, but The die-pressed crimpers are just so much better than the hammer "swage" style ones, and a LOT better than soldering. The bolt-cutter style ones are OK but unless you already have those, I would just buy a hydraulic one from the start.

    That solder will eventually corrode, micro-crack, and fail. Not to mention there is no mechanical connection between the copper lug and copper wire strands. NASA agrees, and the Space Shuttle probably only sees half of the vibration that my XJ does 😀
    I just checked, and you can get one of those crimpers for $38 on Amazon. Or get a better (Temco) one for $80 and it should last for a while.

    And secondly, spend a few extra bucks and get adhesive-backed heatshrink. Helps completely seal the lug from water ingress and corrosion. Lastly, don't forget to put a proper fuse between the alternator and battery (positive) if you are upgrading from the factory cable which has an integrated fusible link.

    EDIT:
    I use KnuKonceptz cables if you need high quality 100% OFC power wire for cheap (rated to 150A, anything more and you should just go with 0/1 gauge)

  7. Great vid, J!
    One thing, though…I would strongly suggest NOT using acid core solder for wiring. That stuff is designed to work with somewhat less-than-clean copper pipe and should not be used for wiring as the acid flux can actually eat through the small strands of wire (leaving a green, corroded mess). For wire, you want to use rosin core or, better yet, fluxless (no core) solder paired with a flux paste like you used in the video.
    Cheers, dude and keep those vids coming my man!!!!

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